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Posted on March 22, 2017

Crate training for your new puppy

Meet Bruin, an 11-week-old golden doodle puppy.

He lives with Mathew and Nancy, and his young human siblings Daniel and Susan. Bruin, like the kids, is full of playful energy! Bruin is a young puppy who is still learning the ropes, in the crate, he cries and demands attention, and needs to learn how to be quiet and relaxed when left alone.

The crate is an important training tool for almost every dog, but especially for families with young children. Having your dog learn to tolerate the crate is sometimes necessary when parents need to focus on children, homework, or making dinner. Crate training is important for any owner for trips to the vet, traveling, boarding, etc.

If done correctly, most dogs can learn to love their crate or pass time in the crate when needed. Bruin, like all dogs, needs to learn that the crate is a positive environment, a place where they can relax and settle down.

The solution

Help your puppy learn that only by being quiet and relaxed they will get what they want. Daily practice is the key in teaching your dog that the crate is a safe comfortable place to be, and that it is okay to be alone.

We recommended practicing 10 crate sessions a day, for anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes. Teach your puppy to be calm in the crate, while you are home!

Start by placing 3-4 treats in the back of the crate. Do not call your dog to you, instead walk to your dog, say “Kennel Up” or “Get In”and use your dog’s collar to gently walk your dog into the crate.

Walk away from the crate. Go into the other room, go to the bathroom, or do something near your puppy as you ignore them.

Any time between 2 minutes and 20 minutes later, come back and open the crate. Only after your puppy has quieted down should you let them out.*

When you open the crate, do not reward them or make a big fuss. You are teaching them that going in and out of there is part of their regular life. Ideally, your puppy becomes accustom to going in and finding treats in the back of the crate and learns to relax knowing that eventually, someone always comes to get them out.

 

What not to do

*It is very important to not give in to his cries, and only release him when he is quiet. He needs to learn that the barking/cries do not pay off and it does not get them what they want.

Do not put him in the crate as a reaction or punishment for misbehavior. Your dog needs to learn that the crate is a safe, positive place to be where he gets treats, and is rewarded for being patient.

Excessive Crying/Howling/Whining is expected! If after 10 training sessions your dog is not learning to calm down in the crate, but seems to be getting more worked up, or even panicked, your puppy maybe showing signs of actual Separation Anxiety. Please contact a trainer, or check out one of our Crate Training eBooks to make sure you are doing everything right.  

Zen Dog

By waiting patiently in the crate to be released, Bruin quickly learned that there is no reason for panic or barking. Matthew and Nancy are now able to leave Bruin for periods of time while they are away from the house, and they can sleep through the night knowing he’s comfortable in the crate.

To learn more about training for your young puppy, and other solutions for crate training, check out Zen Dog Training Online.

Posted on March 8, 2017

Mastering The 7 Essential Puppy Training Lessons

Zen Dog Training

In order to successfully bring a new dog into your home, you must first master these 7 Essential Puppy Training Lessons.

House Training

Teaching your dog Where and When to Go to the bathroom is an essential part of successfully bringing a dog into your home. See our Free House Training eBook for all our house training secrets!

Home Alone & Crate Training

Your puppy should learn to relax and be comfortable when left alone in your home or in the crate. Separation Anxiety eBook.

How to Stop Play Biting

There are at least 4 different solutions for play biting. You should know them all and which one works best with your unique situation. Tougher cases will require all four methods! Access all the Play Biting Solutions in our 6 Week Online Puppy Course.

Socialization to People, Places, and Things.

Socialization is the process of domestication. Your dog must learn to feel safe with people and the world around them.  Always bring treats with you when you are walking your puppy, give them as your dog meets new people, visit places, and get accustomed their environment.  

Socialization to Touch and other Animals.

Socialization should ALSO include specific exercises for touch. Your puppy should be OK with the groomer, vet visits, etc; when they are sufficiently vaccinated become socialized with other dogs.

Preventing Food Guarding

Puppyhood is the best time to teach your dog to not protect their food or feel threatened being approached while eating or chewing a bone.

Control of the Mouth

Your dog must be taught to relinquish things in their mouth on command.

Once you’ve mastered these 7 Puppy Essentials you are ready to start obedience training. Learn more about our Group Classes, In Home Training, and Online Learning Solutions at www.ZenDogTraining.net

Posted on November 22, 2016

Reactive dog behavior?  Take a Yoga breath…

Reactive dog behavior?  Take a Yoga breath…

Meet Mico!

Mico is a very sweet 2 year old Anatolian Shepherd/Samoyed Mix, who's just moved from Florida to the big city. He lives in an apartment building in Cambridge with his owners Donna and Jay.

Mico has had trouble adapting to the noisy, busy city. In his new surroundings, he has been acting protective of his home, barking at guests, even lunging at a young child who was running down the street. In general, he seems more reactive towards men, and people with hats or hoodies, when outside on walks.

His over-protectiveness has made things difficult for Donna and Jay. Walks were stressful, his owners never knew if a person walking down the street would trigger his protective behavior. Plus, it was problematic having guests over with Mico barking aggressively.  

In addition to teaching Mico to be better around guests and house visitors, Donna and Jay needed to be able to control Mico on his walks. They wanted him to be relaxed on walks and calm when meeting new people at home or on the street.

What not to do

Given the nature of his behavior, it is very tempting to yell (Mico!) when he is barking or lunging. However, ANY attention coming from Donna or Jay, for example: yelling, scolding, looking Mico in the eyes, might actually reward  him! Raising your voice and scolding him might be misunderstood as your approval. He could think you too are upset at what he’s barking at!

Also, yelling “No!” or correcting him may make him less likely to feel comfortable telling his owners he is upset. Growling can help owners identify situations that stressful to their dog so they know when to start training. Ironically, in these cases, training involves allowing certain growling (especially quiet vocalizations) since it is a signal that he’s upset.

What to do with a Reactive Dog

For training to work, the reactive dog has to feel safe. His owners need to  learn to move him away from situations where he’s feeling overwhelmed.

A training plan for a reactive dog includes, Interrupting Techniques, a De-sensitization and Counter-Conditioning plan, making sure you have the right Tools and Equipment, and Refocusing techniques using positive reinforcement that teach dogs to focus on their handler during high-stress situations.

In Mico's case, we recommended that instead of yelling, his owners take a yoga breath, breathing in and out, calmly for one or two seconds, then call Mico to them (name game).  Refocusing him this way, and rewarding him if he responds will actually help him to calm down by encouraging him to focus when feeling stressed. 

Building up this kind of automatic behavior, where he learns to quickly respond to his owners, will give Mico the message to focus and not feel like he has to worry.

Other Training Options for a Reactive Dog

Working with a reactive dog is more advanced. In addition to refocusing, it is essential to learn how to interrupt your dog when they are really out of control. (Interrupting

Advanced training also incorporates desensitization and counter-conditioning to get your dog to start thinking positively about things that  make your dog upset.

Mico quickly learned that people on walks and visitors are fun and rewarding and not a threat. In less than one month, he (and his owners) were feeling happy and relaxed on walks and when meeting new people at home!

For more information about Reactive Dog training or to learn more about Refocusing techniques, Interrupting, and other solutions, check out Zen Dog Training Online.

Posted on November 1, 2016

Leash and Chill!

Leash and Chill!

Meet Mason, a 10 month old Labrador/Pit mix. Eldon and Libor have adopted this very cute, sweet dog, with a lot of puppy tendencies!

Mason may be 10 months old, but is very willful and demanding of attention. He likes to chase his owner’s cats, jumps up on his owners and guests, and barks to demand food, or as a way to “ask” to be let outside or play.

Mason’s owners have cats, which because of his boisterousness stay sequestered upstairs. Mason and the cats need to learn to co-exist. With dog-cat introductions and teaching a new puppy the rules of the house, It’s important to set up situations where your dog can be successful.

Use an Indoor Leash

We recommended using the leash inside the house to help set up Mason to learn more quickly. A tether is a 4-6 foot leash you tie off to the wall or a piece of heavy furniture. A drag line is when you leave your dog’s leash on inside the house. Using a leash indoors is essential with cat-dog introductions. The indoor leash dragging behind your dog is easier to grab if they decide to chase the cats or you can tether your dog so cats can explore without getting chased.  

The trick is to identify situations and put on the indoor leash, before your dog is really ‘acting out.’ For example, when visitors come over, while kids are playing, or if your dog starts chasing the cat, you can put on their drag line or tether them to get control.

How to use a Tether

The first step was to tie him there for a short period of time while they sat nearby on the couch. They encouraged him by keeping a nice bed there and giving him his favorite chew, a bully stick.

The idea is to reward Mason with calm attention when he is quietly chewing. Occasionally, they said “Good Boy” and pet him gently before going back to reading/sitting on the couch.

Over time, they could leave the room without Mason getting nervous or anxious. You are teaching him to ‘self-sooth’ or relax and chill on command. By using the tether, he learns that the rewards Only follow Good behavior!

Managing behavior like this will help your dog learn that he cannot follow you whenever he wants; he must be relaxed and behave to be rewarded with attention.

When to use a Tether

One of the goals they had with Mason was to stop his jumping up on people when they came over to visit. Eldon and Libor started to use the tether BEFORE opening the door to let visitors come in the house.

They asked visitors to play Radioactive Dog with Mason, when people come in the house, they were instructed to ignore him until he sits down, only when he sits and acts calm, should they pet and acknowledge him. 

The leash step (placing the front of your shoe on the leash just past where it connects with the floor) is also helpful in correcting jumping, making it easier to control your dog when saying hi to someone coming in the house, or when meeting people on walks.  

To help with the cat-dog introductions we recommended scheduling a 20 minute nightly pet-session with the kitties. First, tiring Mason out with some vigorous exercise, then feeding him in the crate so they can pet the cats in peace. Also, tethering Mason more often to help the cats explore the downstairs without constantly being chased.

Mason has shown great progress since these methods have been put into practice, and is well on this way to being a Zen Dog!

To learn more about Management Tools, and other solutions for having a demanding puppy, check out Zen Dog Training Online.

Posted on September 6, 2016

Set Up For Success

Set Up For Success

Meet Koda, this 4 year old little fireball is a Jack Russell/Chihuahua
mix adopted 6 months ago.

Koda's family, 2 parents and 2 teenage daughters, had already seen
Koda bite several people before calling Zen Dog Training for help.
The bites were not severe however his biting was definitely a problem
that needed fixing!  Even worse, a majority of the bites were
happening to friends and visitors inside their own home.

We immediately got to work on setting up the right home environment
for Koda’s success. Management tools are absolutely essential when
creating a training plan for a dog with aggression issues.

A few important training tools:

  • 6’ Drag Line (indoor leash that drag’s behind your dog)
  • Collar
  • Tethers (tying your dog to the couch, radiator, etc...)
  • TREATS!

We recommended using a drag line, a leash that drags behind Koda
when visitors or friends are in the house. Koda’s family learned how to interrupt his inclination to nip and bite by ALWAYS keeping a leash attached to his
collar INSIDE the house.  

Quickly they realized how useful the drag line was, especially when
he tried to nip at us during the visit. Having him on the leash inside
the house, allowed Koda’s owners to immediately remove him when
he got nervous and gave them more time to interrupt aggressive
behaviors.

We also suggested that Koda be tethered to the couch or kitchen
table during higher stress times like when someone rang the doorbell,
or was entering the house.

Tethering should only be used when someone is home!
An ideal time would be when visitors arrive, or when kids and their friends play
inside.  Using the tether allowed Koda’s people and friends to have the
freedom to safely move around the house, while simultaneously
managing and restricting his movement.

Finally, treats are important tool in these situations since Koda was
fearful, and nervous when new people enter the house.

Giving Koda treats when visitors arrived (a counter-conditioning
technique) encourages relaxed body language. Treats plus gentle
persistence, can help him understand that new people in the home
are welcome are not a threat.

Training Koda not to bark or bite visitors can only be achieved with
the right tools and environment. Training needs to happen in
situations where everyone is safe and relaxed. Now that the right
environment was in place we could start working on actually changing
his reactive tendencies.

To learn more about Management Tools, and other solutions for
having a reactive dog, check out Zen Dog Training Online.